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Cookin' ATVS Style: Billy's Chicken Stew

As you probably know, we here at And the Valley Shook usually embrace the mud-crusted, bourbon-soaked barbarian hoard image of the LSU fan. And good eatin' is a big part of that. With that in mind, and some ample support from the readership, we commence with the official ATVS recipe series. We're going to try and make this a weekly feature, highlighting some classic Cajun and Creole recipes for the home or the tailgate. We would love to get reader contributions (in fact we'll probably need the help), and for that you can send your favorite recipes to atvsrecipes@gmail.com. Hopefully everybody will enjoy it.

For the first installment, we're going with my very own recipe for Chicken Stew. This is an old Cajun country dish, hearty and great for cold weather, and like most stews it's served over rice. It's also the sort of dish that gets better with time. Back in the day, a lot of households would use it as a change-up for red beans & rice on Mondays, because it can simmer for hours while Momma did the laundry and other household chores. Everybody kind of has their own spin on this recipe, mine comes mostly from convenience during my single days. It originated as a chicken ettouffe recipe from John Folse's Encyclopedia of Cajun & Creole Cuisine, which I improvised on one night and turned into more of the classic stew. I usually eye-ball it, in terms of the proportions, but here's some that work for a standard recipe that will serve 6-8 people.

Ingredients:

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3 lbs chicken -- I used some boneless, skinless chicken breasts cut into chunks for this, but some may prefer to use a whole fryer cut up into serving pieces.
1 cup diced onion
1 cup diced bell pepper
1 cup diced celery
3 bay leaves
¼ cup garlic, minced
2 14-oz cans chicken broth
1 twelve-oz bottle beer -- Abita Turbodog here, but anything will do (see note in instructions)
2 tsp cayenne
½ tsp black pepper
¾ cup worcestshire sauce -- May add more if desired.
1 tbsp garlic powder
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup flour

Star-divide


Instructions:

1. To start off with, cut up your chicken into serving pieces (small chunks if you're using breasts). Combine the garlic powder, black and red pepper in a mixing bowl with the worcestshire sauce, and add the chicken. Marinate for at least 45 minutes to an hour. Obviously the longer the chicken sits in the marinade, the better. I've also substituted a couple teaspoons of your favorite Cajun seasoning like Tony Chachere's or Slap Ya Mama in a pinch. I should further note that this recipe is a little lighter on the pepper than I typically prefer, as not everybody is born with the Iron Stomach of Hephaestus, as we Gomilas are. If your constitution can stand it, I highly recommend tossing in some extra teaspoons of either the black or red peppers.

2. Next come the five most important words in Louisiana cooking: first you make a roux. A roux is a mixture of oil and flour that is the backbone of almost all Cajun cooking. One of the principle differences between Cajun and Creole cooking is the oil-based roux -- Creole chefs in the city had more access to things like butter for these recipes, whereas the folks out in the country relied on oil or animal fat. It's made by heating the oil and whisking in an equal portion of flower, and cooking until the desired color is achieved. I suggest medium/medium-high heat, and use a large skillet or sauce pan for this recipe. Here's a quick how-to guide:

a. Heat the oil in a skillet or sauce pan (cast iron, of course, works best). Experienced chefs will do this over high heat, but if you're a novice I suggest starting low and slowly increasing the heat as you go. It can take a while at lower temperatures, but you can also make excess and save it in something air-tight like a mason jar.


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b. Stir continuously, with something long-handled, like a wooden spoon or a metal whisk (this is important because if anything splatters, the flour will cause that very hot oil to stick to your skin -- it can't be stressed enough to be careful when stirring). If you feel the cooking is getting a little out of control, you can remove the pan from the burner and keep stirring in order to bring it back under control. Once again, a burned roux is a ruined roux, so this is something you have to watch over carefully (if you do in fact ruin it, remove it from the pan into something heat-proof to cool before you throw it away, and start over).

c. Cook until your desired color is achieved. The color of your roux varies inversely to the type of meat you're cooking it with -- the lighter the meat, the darker the roux. Meats like chicken and seafood call for a dark brown or even a reddish-brown (although I wouldn't suggest trying to cook a reddish-brown roux your first time out, as it'll be very close to burning stage when done), whereas beef, pork and game meats call for lighter brown rouxs. In this case, I went for a rich, caramel color.

d. Once the desired color is achieved, you can add your desired vegetables for sautéing. They'll absorb the heat and stop the darkening process.

3. Once the roux is the desired color, add the onions, bell peppers, celery and bay leaves and sauté until wilted, stirring occasionally. A lot of people will add the minced garlic here, but one thing I've learned is that overcooked garlic is a little bitter, so it can be better to wait to add it until later.

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4. Add the two cans of chicken broth and the beer, slowly, stirring the mixture constantly, so that it incorporates well. Any beer will work, really, but I prefer dark beers and I used Abita Turbodog here (makes for an excellent meal pairing as well). I really think the richness and the dark, almost chocolatey flavor really adds something. I've had some great experiences using some nut-flavored ale as well, like Lazy Magnolia's Southern Pecan, or Abita's Pecan Harvest seasonal. Make sure to add the beer slowly while stirring, as it will foam up.

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5. Increase heat and bring the mixture to a rolling boil for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

6. Add the chicken and marinade all together, then the minced garlic. Return the stew to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes to an hour (again, the longer the better). Serve over steamed rice. Serves 6-8.

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Comment 43 comments  |  3 recs  | 

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Looks great!

Some notes:

Just incase we have some non-cajuns reading these posts (and I suspect that we will) you’d do well to pay close attention to this line:

Stir continuously, with something long-handled, like a wooden spoon or a metal whisk
DO NOT use a plastic spoon to stir your roux. It will melt. They don’t call it cajun napalm for nothin’. I use a metal spoon/whisk, as even a wooden spoon will eventually burn down to the handle over the years of scraping the pot.

Also, for you first timers making a roux, if you go with the oven method it is pretty much fool/newb proof. In fact I’ve recently switched to making my rouxs in the oven due to my flat top stove being dishing out uneven heat. I plan to try microwaving my roux eventually or maybe a microwave/oven hybrid to speed up the cooking time.

"I know the quarterback has a strong arm, but...I mean the ball's not gonna outrun ME" --PP7

by LSU Jonno on Jul 7, 2011 8:34 AM CDT reply actions  

Yeah

Good note on plastic — I only use the wooden spoon here because the dutch oven was non-stick, so I didn’t want to use my metal whisk. I have a cast-iron skillet but its not big enough to fit everything.

I should also note that a lot of chefs recommend heating your liquid in a pot, cooking the roux/vegetables in another and then adding it to the already boiling liquid, like you would for a gumbo. I don’t typically for convenience sake.

Writer (and a handsome one at that),
And the Valley Shook

by Billy Gomila on Jul 7, 2011 8:41 AM CDT up reply actions  

i always though the napalm appelation

was due to the fact it stuck to you and continued to burn.

/has scars

Remember the Rose Bowl: The Story of the Alabama Crimson Tide & the Grandaddy of Them All

by kleph on Jul 7, 2011 8:41 AM CDT up reply actions  

That too

But it WILL melt plastic. I’ve seen somebody throw a ruined roux that hadn’t cooled into some tupperware and it melted through in minutes.

Writer (and a handsome one at that),
And the Valley Shook

by Billy Gomila on Jul 7, 2011 8:52 AM CDT up reply actions  

well, as for me personally

i take inordinate pride in my browned wooden “roux” spoon.

Remember the Rose Bowl: The Story of the Alabama Crimson Tide & the Grandaddy of Them All

by kleph on Jul 7, 2011 8:53 AM CDT up reply actions  

If you don't have cast iron...

…..a good steel pot will work, with a wire whisk. Another thing, heart-friendly oils like Canola or olive oil will smoke and burn pretty quickly. Use at least corn oil, unless you’re sticking to a light-colored roux.

…..This series of posts looks like it’s going to be a lot of fun!

......Drowning in cool elixir.

by Acid Reign on Jul 7, 2011 4:56 PM CDT up reply actions  

I actually prefer a steel pot to a cast iron pot for making rouxs.

It lets me see the color contrast better.

"I know the quarterback has a strong arm, but...I mean the ball's not gonna outrun ME" --PP7

by LSU Jonno on Jul 8, 2011 7:06 AM CDT up reply actions  

I use corn or vegetable oil.

However, the best thing is bacon grease. The first three steps on my gumbo recipe are:

1. Cook 1 lb bacon.
2. Eat bacon.
3. Strain grease for roux.

by janepriceestrada on Jul 8, 2011 8:22 AM CDT up reply actions  

lol

"I know the quarterback has a strong arm, but...I mean the ball's not gonna outrun ME" --PP7

by LSU Jonno on Jul 8, 2011 9:59 AM CDT up reply actions  

True

The oven method is almost bulletproof.

Looks like a good stew. I’d have to add some good smoked pork sausage though…can’t get by without the pork fat.

"Never start a fight with an old man...if he's too old to fight, he'll probably just kill you."

by figtide on Jul 8, 2011 7:39 AM CDT up reply actions  

I've done something similar to this

With just some good deer sausage, no other meat, just roux, trinity, and a very little bit of stock — mostly just a thick gravy with sausage in it.

Writer (and a handsome one at that),
And the Valley Shook

by Billy Gomila on Jul 8, 2011 11:49 AM CDT up reply actions  

good work

been looking forward to this and all future installments.

by LSUJOSHUA on Jul 7, 2011 8:42 AM CDT reply actions  

i've got a very un-authentic jambalaya recipe

that came about precisely this way. i had a french recipe for cooking chicken in a pot, i adapted it a bit with jambalaya recipe and voila! my own little version of the thing.

(i would like to see an “authentic” guide to cooking jambalaya on this at some point closer to the season. i’ve seen a lot of lsu folks cooking it at talegates and it would be nice to have a guide to point my bama brethrin to in the week or so ahead of the game.)

as for roux. i really changed my approach to gumbos and such after living awhile in opelousas and tried the prarie cajun dark roux cooking. i’ve had gumbos up there where, i swear to god, the roux had to have been jet black. but the amount of flavor they packed in was astonishing.

as a result i now do extremely dark rouxs that take quite awhile to prepare. i do a big batch, portion ‘em out, and freeze ’em for future use. works quite well in the fall when you get that hankerin for a gumbo but don’t want to go through all the steps.

but this method of doing a roux and building the dish on top of it has always been an issue for me. i find the vegetables don’t cook well or burn a bit. i might give this a whirl to see if i can master it.

one question though: WHERE THE HELL IS YOUR CAST IRON, SON?

i am disappoint.

Remember the Rose Bowl: The Story of the Alabama Crimson Tide & the Grandaddy of Them All

by kleph on Jul 7, 2011 8:52 AM CDT reply actions  

See above comment

I have a cast-iron skillet, but its not big enough for an all-in-one and I was kind of going for convenience. I do need to get a nice-sized pot or dutch oven sooner or later though.

I have a very good jambalaya recipe from a friend that I’ll go with as we get close to the season.

Writer (and a handsome one at that),
And the Valley Shook

by Billy Gomila on Jul 7, 2011 8:54 AM CDT up reply actions  

when my grandmother died

the cast iron is what we fought over. i’ve got a collection of skillets for every occasion. (my sister got the cornbread pans)

Remember the Rose Bowl: The Story of the Alabama Crimson Tide & the Grandaddy of Them All

by kleph on Jul 7, 2011 9:05 AM CDT up reply actions  

My grandfather just passed a couple of months ago...

… and it was quite a bit of consternation amongst the family when we were divvying up the cast iron pots and pans.

(And rightly so.)

Cast iron is, by far, the best cooking medium for dishes like this.

by vineyarddawg on Jul 7, 2011 2:51 PM CDT up reply actions  

Cooking with cast-iron!

Had to smile at these comments. When my dad died in 2009 I got all the iron pots and skillet. My wife and I cook in those every week. I sure miss my couch coach but he left me with some great cooking tools. :-)

Cooking ATVS style is a big winner.

by Totally Spoil on Jul 8, 2011 7:53 AM CDT up reply actions  

another question/suggestion

when i went to the shiner bock brewery in texas many years ago, i got talking to the brewmaster about cooking with the beer. he said the key is to let it go flat before you use it. when you lose the carbonation the taste comes through better (and the chemical effect of the alcohol is the same).

have you heard this before and do you think it would address the “foaming” issue you mentioned?

Remember the Rose Bowl: The Story of the Alabama Crimson Tide & the Grandaddy of Them All

by kleph on Jul 7, 2011 9:08 AM CDT up reply actions  

Interesting

I have Abita’s cookbook (every recipe uses one of their brews), and I don’t believe it ever mentioned that. I wonder how that works.

Writer (and a handsome one at that),
And the Valley Shook

by Billy Gomila on Jul 7, 2011 9:14 AM CDT up reply actions  

Learn something new every day!

Abita has a cookbook?! I must have this. NOW!

I must create my belief system lest I be enslaved by another - Thomas Paine

by Curtis Bleaux on Jul 7, 2011 1:20 PM CDT up reply actions  

I cheat with my Jamb recipe...

But it’s damn good.

By cheat I mean I use uncle ben’s rice for shorter cooking times, and I also use some kitchen bouquet to darken it.

After scraping the graton i don’t get the rice as dark as I like it. I’ve browned my veggies before, after scraping the graton, and it get’s me to the desired color without adding kitchen bouquet but I couldn’t tell a difference in the final product’s taste…So why would I want to spend 30 more minutes over the stove when I can spend 5 seconds adding kitchen bouquet?

"I know the quarterback has a strong arm, but...I mean the ball's not gonna outrun ME" --PP7

by LSU Jonno on Jul 7, 2011 6:13 PM CDT up reply actions  

Great job!

Really looking forward to the recipe series…gonna help get me through the summer…

[something intriguing or funny]

by tigerNaustin on Jul 7, 2011 9:43 AM CDT reply actions  

Questions from a northerner!

First off, this recipe looks delicious, and I’ll definitely be checking in on future posts for more recipes. As I’m a huge fan of cajun and creole food, and am also trying to expand my cooking prowess to something more complicated than cooking Ramen, I have a few questions:

1) You mention the beer you used has a bit of a chocolatey rich flavor that you suspect adds to the boldness of the dish. Would any chocolate porter or stout do as a good substitute, then? I don’t think I get Abita up here in Michigan, but there’s plenty of chocolate stouts I could try using. In the same vein, how much do you think the quality of beer matters in this case? Could a Budweiser produce the same quality?

2) Once the roux is the color you want it, I assume you just remove it from heat until it cools, then add the vegetables?

Thanks in advance for answers, and apologies for noob cooking questions.

Haven't you heard? There's a battle of words, and most of them are lies.

by The Ghost of John Hannah on Jul 7, 2011 9:45 AM CDT reply actions  

Answers

1. I’m sure that would work, although Turbodog isn’t quite as thick as a porter or stout. Really any beer will work, but I do think darker beers add some extra flavor. I’ve used Dos Equis Amber and Killian’s Irish Red in a pinch as well.

2. No, you can lower the heat slightly if you have it higher, but just add the vegetables straight in, stir to make sure they’re good an incorporated, and saute’ them til wilted. The presence of the vegetables will stop the roux from darkening any further.

Writer (and a handsome one at that),
And the Valley Shook

by Billy Gomila on Jul 7, 2011 9:52 AM CDT up reply actions  

I'll let billy give a better recommendation for a sub

But I’d recommend against doing any cooking with a budweiser.

Also, a quick search shows turbodog is on sale in at least 20 places in the Ann Arbor/Detriot area alone. I’m always surprised at how quickly it’s grown, but you can find Abita anywhere these days.

http://abita.com/find_abita/index.php

Managing Editor/Chief Lackey-And The Valley Shook THE LSU Tigers Blog of the Week for 52,136 Weeks in a Row and Counting

by PodKATT on Jul 7, 2011 9:52 AM CDT up reply actions  

Excellent, thanks to both for the replies

I’ll look around for Turbodog as well. I’ve used budweiser to cook beer brats with, as I’ve been told the quality of beer doesn’t impact the brats a whole lot in that kind of dish.

Haven't you heard? There's a battle of words, and most of them are lies.

by The Ghost of John Hannah on Jul 7, 2011 9:55 AM CDT up reply actions  

The more spices you use generally the "better" beer you want to use

Things like Brats generally don’t have too many spices to season it, so beers like Bud will work for stuff like sausage. The more spices you use, generally you want to use better beer b/c things like Bud, the little flavor it has will be drowned out in a flavorful dish. Generally speaking, of course.

I must create my belief system lest I be enslaved by another - Thomas Paine

by Curtis Bleaux on Jul 7, 2011 1:28 PM CDT up reply actions  

Yeah not just Budweiser..

Generally, any American pilsner won’t give good flavor b/c macro-brews like Budweiser, Miller, Coors, etc. just don’t have flavor at all compared to things like Abita or Killian’s. Ambers & darker beers will generally work well b/c they simply have more flavor that comes out when the alcohol is burned off than something like Bud, Miller, etc.

And I admit to possibly being Louisiana-biased but Abita products rock major ass!

This is also in response to John Hannah as well.

I must create my belief system lest I be enslaved by another - Thomas Paine

by Curtis Bleaux on Jul 7, 2011 1:25 PM CDT up reply actions  

unlike a lot of other american-style mass produced lagers

budweiser contains as much as 30% rice in addition to the hops and barley malt. i’ve had quite a few people over the years note this as the cause for it’s particular taste when used to cook.

Remember the Rose Bowl: The Story of the Alabama Crimson Tide & the Grandaddy of Them All

by kleph on Jul 7, 2011 5:50 PM CDT up reply actions  

And my dad's reason

For why it gives him a headache.

Writer (and a handsome one at that),
And the Valley Shook

by Billy Gomila on Jul 7, 2011 7:31 PM CDT up reply actions  

The only thing I'd use a Budweiser for...

is to put out fires

"Never start a fight with an old man...if he's too old to fight, he'll probably just kill you."

by figtide on Jul 8, 2011 7:36 AM CDT up reply actions  

I agree

I’ve always thought that they should just pour Budweiser back into their Clydesdales!

by andyj on Jul 8, 2011 8:14 PM CDT via mobile up reply actions  

You don't want the roux to sit at all

It will clump & coagulate (sp?) pretty quickly until you put the trinity (vegetables) in it. This is also why you constantly have to stir it- b/c it clumps quickly if you don’t.

I must create my belief system lest I be enslaved by another - Thomas Paine

by Curtis Bleaux on Jul 7, 2011 1:22 PM CDT up reply actions  

Roux:

…..Use it immediately, or chunk it. Nothing’s worse than a separated roux. Ruins any dish.

......Drowning in cool elixir.

by Acid Reign on Jul 7, 2011 4:51 PM CDT up reply actions  

Beer choices...

I would avoid bitter beers and go for the malty styles.

In most cooking you are reducing the liquids in the recipe and concentrating the flavors. A beer such as an India Pale Ale that has a lot of bitterness in its flavor profile could contribute more bitterness than you want when it cooks down.

As a general rule, if a beer advertises its IBU content (International Bittering Unit), I would be very hesitant to use it in cooking, since bitterness is a major part of its flavor profile.

I’d think carefully before using a stout; since some have a lot of roast malt character that could be problematic. Malty, nutty, caramel-ly flavors would probably be good in cooking, while bitter and “coffee-ish” flavors could be… less desirable. Stouts and porters have a pretty wide range, so it’s really a matter of recognizing the character of the particular beer and thinking about it will fit in with the other flavors.

As for Budweiser, the objective of using beer in a recipe is to add flavor, so it is more appropriate to use a beer that contributes flavor.

by J W R on Jul 7, 2011 10:08 PM CDT up reply actions   1 recs

Malty beers are definitely good to cook with IMO

When they cook down they tend to leave flavors similar to when vegetables caramelize. Nice, subtly sweet, but not overly so, flavors tend to come out.

I must create my belief system lest I be enslaved by another - Thomas Paine

by Curtis Bleaux on Jul 8, 2011 3:47 PM CDT up reply actions  

rec'd, saved, to be printed when I get home.

Also, amber beers go great with spicy food, and for spicier food, try a nice IPA.
Abita happens to make both of these…and they’re cheap and good.

by robert guiscard on Jul 7, 2011 5:40 PM CDT reply actions  

I am admittedly

Not EXTREMELY experienced in cooking with beer. I’ve done it a little, but not enough to claim much insight. I DO have Abita’s cookbook, which has several recipes I’m very keen on trying, so look for them in the future.

Writer (and a handsome one at that),
And the Valley Shook

by Billy Gomila on Jul 7, 2011 7:34 PM CDT up reply actions  

Ah sorry!

I was talking about pairing beers with the food. I have only a tiny bit of experience cooking with IPAs (ie, I was already drunk), so I’d take JWR’s advice, as seen above. And it sounds like he’s pointing to an amber-style, which is exactly what Turbodog is.

I also have to get my hands on this Abita cookbook…firing up the website now…

by robert guiscard on Jul 8, 2011 1:26 AM CDT up reply actions  

Abita makes an IPA now?

Nice. I will have to go to World Market and check it out.

Some men just want to watch the world burn. Others set it on fire accidentally and call their friends to come over and watch. Les Miles is both.
- Spencer Hall

by Gregatron on Jul 8, 2011 1:57 PM CDT up reply actions  

Yes. And it is Good!

Jockamo IPA is the name.

I must create my belief system lest I be enslaved by another - Thomas Paine

by Curtis Bleaux on Jul 8, 2011 3:44 PM CDT up reply actions  

This is awesome.

I’m going to alter this for my hippie diet. (Yes, I’m vegan. :P)

I always use extra virgin olive oil when making a roux. The smoke point is around 400F but that should be fine on anything except the highest heat levels. More importantly, it has a great flavor.

I can’t wait to see what you recommend for a gumbo recipe. I make a pretty decent gumbo myself, but am always up checking out what other people do to get ideas.

Some men just want to watch the world burn. Others set it on fire accidentally and call their friends to come over and watch. Les Miles is both.
- Spencer Hall

by Gregatron on Jul 8, 2011 1:55 PM CDT reply actions  

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